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A journalist's journey to Gaza's front line

JUANA SUMMERS, HOST:

Today, the Israeli military took 91ÖÆÆ¬³§'s Daniel Estrin inside Gaza for the first time since the war broke out two years ago. He was with a group of journalists taken to the line that divides Gaza between the Israeli-occupied part and the area under Hamas control. Israel only allows select journalists into Gaza for brief visits escorted by soldiers. And as a condition of the visit, Israel's military censor reviewed 91ÖÆÆ¬³§'s raw audio and video. None of the content of this report was altered. Here is 91ÖÆÆ¬³§'s Daniel Estrin.

DANIEL ESTRIN, BYLINE: It's nearly a month since the Gaza war ended, and I'm in an Israeli military vehicle with a group of journalists driving into Gaza. Before the war, anyone going in and out of Gaza walked through airport-style metal detectors and a maze of gates. None of that is here now.

So we've driven right through the Israeli fence. There are a couple of Israeli military jeeps behind us.

(SOUNDBITE OF JEEPS REVVING)

ESTRIN: It takes only minutes to reach a military outpost close to the yellow line, the spot in Gaza where Israeli troops pulled back to when the war ended.

Now we're walking through a small Israeli base. A soldier without his shirt on shaving. Another soldier just come out of the shower with his underwear on, a towel over his shoulder.

One soldier is wearing a T-shirt in English that says Hamas hunting club. Another speaks about his wife looking after their six children back home in Israel. And aside from their chatter, it's utterly quiet in this place once known as one of the most densely populated in the world.

Now we're climbing up.

I climb up to the top of a tall dirt berm, where Israeli military spokesman Nadav Shoshani gives an overview. And I catch my first glimpse of the outskirts of Gaza City.

Wow. Oh, my gosh.

NADAV SHOSHANI: I'll give a quick explanation. As you're seeing in front of you is the battlefield of Shuja'iyya. To the left is Gaza City.

ESTRIN: I feel like my heart sank, just climbing up to the top of this mound of dirt, looking at this expanse of destruction. I'm looking at the tall high-rise buildings of Gaza City that are still standing in the distance. But around it, piles of cement, bombed out schools and homes. It's quiet, except for the chatter of Israeli soldiers behind me. I barely see any shrubbery or any trees, just vast expanses of crumpled cement homes and cement beams sticking out of the dirt like tall tombstones.

The war is over. But Palestinians aren't allowed to return to live in this half of Gaza, where Israeli troops are stationed. The troops are active, finding and destroying parts of Hamas tunnels. And Hamas is active, too, regrouping and consolidating its control of its half of Gaza, where Palestinians live. The body of American Israeli hostage Itay Chen was recovered from this part of Gaza Tuesday. Once Hamas finishes handing over the remains of Israel's dead hostages, the U.S. plan is for a multinational peacekeeping force to deploy in Gaza and for Hamas to disarm. Only then will Israel withdraw its troops from Gaza, says military spokesman Shoshani.

SHOSHANI: We would be glad for that to happen immediately and as soon as possible. But we are ready to operate here to protect our civilians as long as that not happening.

ESTRIN: This is the most uncertain moment of the ceasefire. Will these next steps proceed as planned? If not, is the alternative a return to war? And is this temporary division of Gaza into two the new status quo? The Israeli military has been occupying the West Bank, the other Palestinian territory, for more than 50 years. Shoshani says the military is prepared to remain in Gaza for a long time. At the edge of this devastation, this Israeli military outpost has a tall cellphone tower, electricity poles, fortified walls.

SHOSHANI: We built infrastructure here to be suitable for troops to have normal conditions of staying here for a prolonged time. Our time here depends on how fast the stages of the agreement move forward.

ESTRIN: For years before the war, I would enter Gaza every few months to report for 91ÖÆÆ¬³§. I remember driving through the bustling streets of the Shuja'iyya neighborhood on my way to the center of Gaza City. During the war, it was the site of fierce battles. I've seen the photos of the destruction on my phone, my computer screen. But to stand before that monochrome wasteland and watch it go on and on - and this is as far as I'm allowed to go. The war is over. But Israel still does not allow journalists to enter Gaza independently to report firsthand how life there has been rendered unlivable.

Daniel Estrin, 91ÖÆÆ¬³§ News, Gaza.

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC) Transcript provided by 91ÖÆÆ¬³§, Copyright 91ÖÆÆ¬³§.

91ÖÆÆ¬³§ transcripts are created on a rush deadline by an 91ÖÆÆ¬³§ contractor. This text may not be in its final form and may be updated or revised in the future. Accuracy and availability may vary. The authoritative record of 91ÖÆÆ¬³§â€™s programming is the audio record.

Daniel Estrin is 91ÖÆÆ¬³§'s international correspondent in Jerusalem.